Monday, May 9, 2011

Tips for Newbies - Flat-Track Roller Derby and Outdoor Recreational Skating

In response to reading a newbie tips and tricks for new skaters to the sport of roller derby, needless to say, I was very disappointed. The blogs lack of substantial information for a skater entering the sport was somewhat appaling and the language is offensive. The uninformative blog inspired me to compile an informative and educational list of real tips and tricks for newbies as opposed to the "shut-up and skate, you're not here for fun," attitude of some leagues. Non-professional leagues that are not paid as professionals must understand that someone joining a pay-to-play sport is doing it because they want to have fun, meet new people, excercise, and hopefully inspire others to a healthy active lifestyle.
I created a PDF file, so here I will screenshot and post as JPG's.


New Derby Girl Checklist

Embarking on the journey of playing roller derby?  This a practical guide to reduce the confusion and fear and provide a little insight from veteran skaters.  Ultimately, how you mix and match the ingredients will come to you in time, when you find the combination you feel most comfortable with.
Be prepared for anything.  If a first aid kit is not available at practices through your league, make sure you stock your skate bag with items that may come in handy in case you are injured during practice.  It is better to be prepared than to find yourself with a muscle strain or a cut and there is no medical aid nearby.

Essentials:
§ Skates - Helmet
§ Skate Tool
§ Knee Pads
§ Elbow Pads
§ Wrist Guard
§ Mouth Guard (get a carrying case)
§ Skate Bag or Rolling Suitcase
§ Duct Tape

Non-Essentials: (Useful Items to Carry in Your Skate Bag)
§  Ibuprophen (reduces swelling)
§  Tiger Balm or Icy Hot (something for your muscles)
§  Ace Bandage
§  Kwik Lube
§  Mole-skin (for blisters)
§  A few extra bearings
§  Band-aids
§  Lip Balm
§  Ankle Wrap
§  Anti-bacterial Hand Gel
§  An extra shirt
§  Medical Tape
§  Survival Ice Packs
§  Bottle of vitamin B complex
§  Blister Pads or Gel
§  Toe Nail Clippers
§  Scissors
§  Shin Guards (not for everyone, but they protect against skate wheels, rope track burn, and sliding injuries)

Derby Definitions
GEAR:
·         Quad Skates - Four wheels in a square pattern.
·         Mouth Guard - Protects teeth from damage.
·         Knee Pads - Protects Knees
·         Elbow Pads - Protects Elbows
·         Wrist Guards - Prevents wrist injuries
·         Bearings - Are located in the center of the wheel and are the buffer between the hub and the axles.
·         Trucks - Are located in the front and rear of the skates attached by a nut.  Loosening and tightening trucks is important to fit your needs.  If trucks are too loose, you may not have proper ankle support and slide.  Trucks that are too tight can cause the same affect.  It's important to check them periodically and adjust.
·         Cushions - Cushions are located above the trucks.  They provide shock resistance and wear down over time (see anatomy of a skate).  As cushions wear down, it's important to tighten the trucks for a snug fit.
·         Durometer - Hardness of the polyurethane of a wheel.
·         Polyurethane - Plastic rolling surface of the wheel.
·         Hub - The hard nylon or aluminum middle of the wheel the polyurethane is attached to.
 
Common type of STOPS:
·         Toe stops - Executing a 180 degree turn and stopping, using the toe stops.
·         Hockey stops - Depending on which foot you find most comfortable, an abrupt stop utilizing mostly one leg/foot, hard cut to come to a complete stop.
·         Plow stops - An effective stop with a wide stance.  Also known as "snow plows," is opening both legs and putting pressure on the front wheels and front right or left side whichever is more comfortable for you.
 ·         Power slide - Another abrupt stop that uses side skating and an abrupt turn in the opposite direction.

Anatomy of a Quad Roller Skate
Although the toe stops are different and this is not a speed skate boot, many of the components are similar..

Anatomy of a Quad Roller Skate
by Dave VanBelleghem
 This article by Dave vanBelleghem includes an exploded diagram of a quad roller skate with each of its parts labeled.

For those of you that don't know a pivot pin from a speed cone, here's the biggest parts diagram I could find for you. The parts are numbered and correspond to the list beneath the diagram. This is a double action plate quad skate. 1 cushion above and 1 below the truck.
  1.    Plate (made of aluminum or plastic like material)
2.    Kingpin (or Kingbolt)
3.    Cushion Retainer (made from aluminum)
4.    Cushion (made of rubber)
5.    Truck
A.    Pivot Pin
B.    Axle
6.    Action Nut
7.    Pivot Cup (made of rubber)
A.    Pivot Cup Hole
8.    Toe Stop (non adjustable bell type)
9.    Toe Stop Bolt
10. Speed Cone (Washer)
11. Bearing
12. Spacer
13. Wheel
14. Axle Nut
15. Heel Brake
A.    U-Bolt
B.    U-Bolt Mounting Washers and Nuts
16. Toe Stop Mounting Block
17. Boot
18. Laces
19. Plate Mounting Bolts and Nuts
PO Box 12320, Venice Beach, California 90295 USA
Thank You Dave!

PADS - DIFFERENT STYLES AND COMPANIES

·         All pads are not created equal, however, in general finding  pads that fit is important.
·         Poor fitting pads can cause serious injury (slipping), circulatory problems, numb feet, shin splints and pain in the lower and upper extremities.
·         New skaters usually purchase set of pads from Target or Wal-Mart.  Although the sets offered are inexpensive, they rarely provide the proper protection for full-contact sports.
·         Invest in a reasonably priced set of knee and elbow pads to protect your knees and elbows.  I prefer Pro-Tech wrist guards because they have a light mesh material and after removing the top nylon wrist shaper, they are very comfortable.
Here are a few links to skate pad manufacturers that are well established and provide proper protection for the sport. There are more manufacturers of pads so research to the type that suits you.
Pro-Tech:
http://www.pro-tec.net/
Triple 8's:
http://www.triple8.com/
187's:
http://www.187killerpads.com/
Pro-Designed: High-end custom pads
http://www.prodesigned.com/
Scabs
http://www.skates.com/Smith-Scabs-Pads-ELITE-KNEE-PADS-p/sg12.htm
Atom (owned by Atomatrix)
http://www.atomgear.com/protective-wear.html
TSG
https://www.ridetsg.com/

Anatomy of a Wheel
Finding the right set of wheels can be difficult for new skaters, without the proper knowledge of wheel terminology.

Wheel Terminology:
Duromete(aka Hardness)r:  This refers to the how hard the wheels are ;0).  Similar to buying clothing, different manufacturers try to create a uniform system of sizing, however; not all wheels will meet the criteria and the color of the wheel in some cases determines the hardness.  In general, the higher the durometer number, the harder the wheel.

 Hardness ranges from 60-100 and are good for varying skate surfaces.
The description of a wheel translates to (62mm x 43 mm) = H x W.



OUTDOOR WHEEL SUGGESTION:
Outdor (Recommended)
Kyptonics (Route) Wheels are excellent for all terrain outdoor skating.
They are tall wheels, verysoft and easy to skate any outdoor surface with ease.  They are available in:  Route 70's (70 mm high), Route 65's (65 mm high), Route 62's (62 mm high)  They have a softness of 78a and color does not determine hardness of these wheels.

P"Pusher" Positions

You may hear the term "pusher wheels" mentioned in derby and ask yourself "what does that mean?"

Pusher wheel set-up: Is the mixing of two different wheel hardness to theoretically achieve speed with grip for less slide out on the corners. 

Using a pusher set-up is skater preference. There are arguments for and against using a pusher set-up, so if you decide you want to try it, here are a few different styles of pusher set-ups.


H = Harder Wheel
S = Softer Wheel
*Be certain to use the same width and height when using two sets for pusher set-ups.
Wheel positions usually refer to a Z pattern:



     BEARINGS
      Bearings are important for speed.
      The higher the ABEC- rating, supposedly, the faster and smoother the roll of the bearing. Some skaters dispute this, and honestly, I question it as well. I have tested all levels of bearings as well as red swiss and so far what I've noticed is that ABEC-5 and above roll smoothest as long as they are maintained. Also available at a higher cost are ceramic bearings. Ceramic bearings do not rust and are virtually indestructible, at a cost.

ABEC - 1, ABEC - 3, ABEC - 5, ABEC - 7, ABEC - 9, Swiss or Ceramics

Cleaning & Lubing Bearings
It's good to clean your bearings every few months or before each game, whichever one prefers. Be certain to prevent damaging the bearings while removing and make sure they are snug when placed back in the wheel after cleaning.

Some people prefer not to use alcohol to clean their bearings, but I have not had any trouble cleaning them this way.  Water is a no-no.

If anyone cares to comment with suggestions or links for more information for future derby girls, all comments and links are welcome.
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7 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thanks. I marked this as a favorite.

Tasha Margette said...

I'm glad this helps! Thank you for reading :).

atelder said...

super helpful!

TheFicklePhotog said...

thank you for posting all of this very useful information!

Tasha Margette said...

Thanks Fotobug and everyone else. If there is anything you want to add, please share your tips! :) I have a few more to add and may do a secondary post.

Anonymous said...

Is there any recomanded bearing? Looking into deffanitly upgrading from my 3 that came with my skates... n recommendations on wheels I have poison pushers

Tasha Margette said...

Skate bearings have improved over the years - the higher the ABEC the smoother and faster the roll. Swiss ceramic bearings are the best and most expensive. I use ABEC 9 - Swiss. I advise against using a low ABEC like 1, 3, or 5. 7 & 9 are the best, or if you can afford ceramics, those are great. Bones bearings are good. :) Hope this helps.